Windjammer cruises offer intimacy aboard ship
By Marcia Biggs/Tampa Bay Online

ST. BARTS, French West Indies - Jimmy Buffett hit it right on the mark when he wrote his hit song, ``Cheeseburger in Paradise.'' At Le Select, the laid-back little cafe just a stone's throw from the crystalline Caribbean, the cheeseburger is a favorite of locals and island regulars such as Buffett who sip cold brews beneath the massive trees outside or cue up at the well-worn pool table inside.

A painted sign on one of the trees reads ``Cheeseburger in Paradise,'' a fitting description as you quickly realize that paradise is not lost. It is alive and well and flourishing contentedly among the Caribbean islands frequented by the six Windjammer Barefoot Cruises
ships that ply the Caribbean year-round.

Imagine sailing on a majestic four-masted tall ship, perhaps the Polynesia, a restored 1929 Portuguese fishing vessel, sails billowing in the breeze. The wind at your back, the salty air in your face, this is definitely a cruise like no other.

A far cry from large superliners, which seem to focus on round-the-clock eating, shipboard entertainment and large port cities, Windjammer cruises beckon to the traveler who doesn't mind swapping high-priced amenities in exchange for uncharted adventure. Your week is spent exploring small islands where Dutch, French, British and Caribbean cultures offer a variety of sights, shopping and culinary pleasures.

``About 40 percent of our bookings are repeat customers,'' says Windjammer public relations director Michael Vegis. ``It's not a cruise for everyone, but then it's not meant to be.''

The six ships in the fleet range from 197 to 282 feet in length, accommodating anywhere from 65 to 126 passengers. All except one (the Amazing Grace, a former British Navy ship) are sailing vessels.

CAREFREE AND CASUAL
Windjammer travelers should not expect luxury accommodations, glitzy floor shows, casinos, a gourmet feast every hour on the hour or a chocolate bon-bon on their jammies each evening. They should, however, expect small but adequate cabins, hearty but simple fare, plenty of social interaction and a carefree, casual ambiance at all times.

New this year is a series of singles cruises and a health cruise. Windjammer offered its first singles cruise in October, and it was a stellar success. Some 126 singles from across the country shared six days and five nights of unabashed, barefoot camaraderie. Cares and inhibitions were thrown to the wind as days were devoted to island exploring, swimming, snorkeling, diving or, for some, nursing a nasty hangover.

Evenings were filled with dancing to live calypso bands brought aboard from the nearest island, toga parties, group games and, later, gazing at the brilliant star-studded sky from top deck.

Concerned that you may be too old - or too young - for a Windjammer singles cruise? Don't worry, be happy. On my cruise, passengers ranged in age from 20s through 60s, with a majority in the 25-45 range. No one was at a loss for companionship, and romance was most definitely in the air.

``If we have a reunion singles cruise next year, I'll bet half of us won't be eligible,'' joked one single sailor when the cruise came to an end. At last report, two couples from my cruise have become engaged, and various others are involved in long-distance romances.

My cruise aboard the Polynesia departed from St. Maarten with stops at the Dutch and French islands of St. Barts, St. Kitts, Saba and Anguilla. These islands offer an array of geography and cultures from the beautiful beaches and French ambiance of St. Barts to the steep mountains and rain forest on Saba.

Shopping, for those who must, is limited on most islands except St. Maarten, where duty-free shops entice the many cruise passengers who embark and disembark at the bustling port town of Philipsburg. Good buys in St. Maarten can be found in watches, silk and designer fragrances. United States currency, charge cards and traveler's checks are accepted almost everywhere, so don't worry about exchanging money.

Be sure to attend the early morning talks each day in which the captain offers historical background on each island, as well as wise tips on where to go, what to see, best beaches and modes of transportation available on each island.

If you plan on doing some diving during the week, check with the captain early on for recommendations on best diving locales. Due to the uncertainty of the itinerary, however (which can change according to weather conditions), you probably won't be able to make reservations at one particular destination.

TYPICAL STOPS
A typical itinerary aboard the Polynesia includes ports of call at the following destinations:

  • ST. MAARTEN - If you wish to see all of this bustling Dutch and French island, plan on arriving a day or two early or leaving a few days after your ship returns to port. A major Caribbean transportation hub, the 37-square-mile island boasts something for everyone, from high-powered shopping and beautiful beaches to gambling and nightlife.

    The Polynesia sets sail from Philipsburg, where you can catch some quick shopping, drinks or a meal on Front Street before or after your cruise. My schedule did not permit me to explore much of St. Maarten, but I did find time to purchase a few T-shirts and beach towels from the endless array of gift shops. Oh yes, happy hour Heinekens were only a buck at most beach cafes just minutes from the pier.

  • ST. BARTS - A lush, mountainous gem of an island, St. Barts remains a bastion of French civilization. Shopkeepers are rude, prices are high, but the beaches are some of the best in the Caribbean. Here you'll find a mix of Euro-jetsetters and wealthy American sun-seekers.

    The ship drops you off in the picture-perfect port of Gustavia, where you can rent a Jeep-like Mini Moke for $30 to $40 for the day. Mopeds and motorbikes also are available.

    Duty-free shopping is limited but centers on perfumes, crystal and gold.

    A stop at the Musee Municipal de St. Barthelemy, at the far side of the harbor, may be of interest. The museum exhibits the island's history through photographs, costumes, antiques and mementos. But, let's face it, the beaches are the main attraction on St. Barts.

    Before exploring, stop at a grocery for bread, wine, cheese and fruit. For sheer beauty as well as entertainment, you can't beat the beach at the end of the tiny airstrip, St. John's Beach. There, nestled in a splendid white-sand cove, you can spend the afternoon watching small jets and private planes as they plunge over the nearby cliffs and attempt to land on the half-mile strip.

    QUELLE EXCITEMENT!

    Plenty of restaurants cater to both French/Caribbean and American palates, but be prepared to pay top dollar for everything (a hamburger runs $12, a Coke $3). If you must dine at a restaurant, make it a cheeseburger at Le Select.

  • ST. KITTS - Far from the glitz and glamour of other islands, the independent island of St. Kitts offers a view of ``the other'' Caribbean. Hire a taxi for the day ($50 for a five-hour tour for four) and let the native driver be your guide. He'll take you on a winding tour of the lovely mountainous island, past miles of sugar cane plantations (the island's main industry) and through small shantytowns where island children play in the dust among ramshackle homes and roaming chickens.

    A restored 18th-century fort on Brimstone Hill and Romney Manor, a lovely hilltop estate that now houses the Caribelle Batik Factory, are the two main tourist attractions on St. Kitts.

    The fort was the site of battles and occupations by the French and British. It offers a spectacular view of the coastline as well as views of surrounding islands.

    At the batik factory, you can watch native women painting hot-wax designs on rolls of cotton cloth in preparation for dyeing. Finished batikwear - including shirts, skirts, swimsuits, dresses and wall hangings - are available for sale, but don't expect any bargains.

    For hikers, trails through a rain forest offer incredible views from the towering Mount Liamuiga, a 3,700-foot extinct volcano. Guided tours are available.

    A few mediocre beaches can be found among the rocky inlets on St. Kitts, but time is better spent sight-seeing. Best shopping is in the town of Basseterre with the usual china, crystal and perfume, along with island crafts in shell, straw and batik.

  • SABA - You'll think you're in Switzerland once you set foot in this breathtakingly beautiful mountain paradise. The tiny, volcanic Dutch island, only 5 square miles, rises out of the sea like a lush green gumdrop. There are no beaches, but Saba is nonetheless filled with spectacular vistas and dotted with gingerbread villages complete with Victorian houses surrounded by white picket fences.

    Passenger vans ($7 per person, round-trip) will meet you at the dock to whisk you along the island's one 9-mile road that winds up and up and around and around, making obligatory stops at each of the island's three towns.

    Be sure to stop and admire the traditional handicrafts of the local Saban women (lacework and Saba Spice) at one of the shops or roadside stands.

    Among the best souvenirs I brought back from my trip were bottles of the syrupy sweet liqueur called Saba Spice. Island women brew their own special versions (in between making lace, one supposes), but main ingredients are 150-proof rum, cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon and brown sugar. At only $3 a bottle, Saba Spice makes a unique gift - and a tasty one!

    Our captain, Marcel Dekker, had recommended a hike through the rain forest to the top of the 3,000-foot extinct volcano, Mount Scenery. More than 1,000 steep stone steps set into the trail make the hike a bit easier, but this is no cake walk. Many in our party turned back at the halfway point, hearing that the fog enshrouding the summit blocked the normally astounding views.

    Still, everyone agreed that even a short hike along the trail - winding through mammoth palms, hanging vines and other tropical flora and fauna - was an effort worth making.

  • ANGUILLA - A real tropical getaway, Anguilla's claim to fame is nearly 12 miles of post-card-perfect white coral beaches where shelling and snorkeling abound, accompanied by its burgeoning reputation as a posh yet unspoiled Caribbean destination for the international jet set.

    There is little to do on quiet Anguilla besides beach exploring. You may hire a taxi for a four-hour tour of the island for about $40 or, better yet, rent a moped so you may stop as you please.

    Just minutes off the coast of Anguilla, tiny Sandy Island beckons to snorkelers with its idyllic setting of white sand and palm trees. Despite its crystal-clear water, however, we found a dead reef with only fair snorkeling. But a cabana serves cold beer and fresh seafood, which made it all worthwhile.

    TIPS FOR THE TRIP

  • Pack light and carry a camera. Casual is the modus operandi. Most of the time you will be wearing a swimsuit. Shorts, light slacks or a sundress are proper dinner attire. Beg, borrow or steal a camera. Bring plenty of film.

  • Bring your own snorkel equipment. The ships do not provide snorkel gear, although it can be rented at most good spots. But why take a chance?

  • Bring plenty of sunscreen and buy a wide-brimmed hat at your first destination. The Caribbean sun is unforgiving. Don't be foolhardy and ruin your trip with a painful sunburn.

  • Check into booking your own transportation from home base to the boarding port.

    Windjammer offers a Fare Share program that is essentially group rates from most major cities. While it can mean a savings in air fare, the scheduling may be inconvenient. My Fare Share plan, for instance, left Miami at 7 a.m. - which meant the added expense of staying overnight at the Miami airport. I also flew on three different airlines - Northwest from Tampa to Miami, American Airlines from Miami to Puerto Rico and United from there to St. Maarten.

  • If your schedule allows, take advantage of Stowaway Night the night before the cruise. For $35, you get overnight accommodations on board, dinner, a steel band party, and breakfast and lunch the following day. It's a good opportunity to meet your mates - and a festive time.

  • Bring along medication or try prescription ear patches to avoid seasickness. Although the cruise I went on was smooth every day except one, better safe than sorry. Why spend an uncomfortable few days being green?

    This story was originally published in The Tampa Tribune June 30, 1991