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First Coast Hot Spots Old meets new on First Coast
By Dorothy Smiljanich/For the Tampa Tribune
Nicknamed the ``First Coast,'' this stretch of North Florida includes some of the state's more watery wonders and historic sites. After all, it's hard to beat a pedigree that goes back to 1513. That's when Spanish explorer Ponce de Leon, seeking the Fountain of Youth, is said to have arrived hereabouts and found Florida instead.
Subsequently, the colonial powers battled in these waters and along the Atlantic coast for centuries. French Huguenots fought it out with the Spanish for control of the region, while Sir Francis Drake led English attacks that, after Drake's death, continued for more than a century.
Today, the region is dominated by Jacksonville, a modern city that straddles the mighty St. Johns River, and by St. Augustine, which claims to be America's ``oldest town'' and which has much to commend to visitors, including an extensive historic district and Spanish Quarter, as well as the Castillo de San Marcos, a star-shaped fortress begun in the 1600s.These two population centers with their urban amenities including museums (both for art and alligators) and a zoo (in Jacksonville and recently renovated), are complemented by some charming small towns and several relatively unspoiled areas, including barrier islands that protect the mainland from the surge of the Atlantic Ocean.
To the north of Jacksonville lies Fort George Island, with the Kingsley Plantation (the oldest plantation house in Florida), and Amelia Island, where the historic town of Fernandina Beach has had - and still enjoys - a colorful life tied to the sea. On the same island, Fort Clinch State Park, a well-preserved brick fortress dating back to the mid-1800s, is staffed by park rangers in period costumes who re-enact life in those times for visitors.
Travelers who expect elegant and modern amenities also may want to try Ponte Vedra, a barrier island a little farther south and known for its chic resorts, shops and restaurants.
The First Coast takes ample advantage of its watery setting, with the Atlantic to one side, the St. Johns to the other, and a host of tributaries, creeks and marshes around and between. Boat tours are often available from local marinas and some of Florida's better seafood is available at the dockside warehouses and small, unassuming restaurants that dot this region.
For many visitors, the northeast section of the state is just a place to pass through on their way to the better publicized attractions farther south. But savvy travelers know that the First Coast offers its own allure.
- Castillo de San Marcos: This Spanish fortress, built in the mid-1600s, is the oldest masonry fort in the United States; adults, $2; children 16 and younger, free; daily 8:45 a.m. to 4:45 p.m.; 1 Castillo Drive, St. Augustine; (904) 829-6506.
- Cummer Gallery of Art: Besides its collection of decorative and fine arts, this gallery has an extensive 18th Meissen porcelain collection; adults, $3; students, $1; younger than school-age, free; 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tuesday to Friday, 4-9 p.m. Tuesdays , noon to 5 p.m. Saturday, 2-5 p.m. Sunday; 829 Riverside Ave., Jacksonville; (904) 356-6857.
- Fort Clinch State Park: Occupied alternately by Union and Confederate soldiers during the Civil War, the park encompasses more than 1,000 acres; $3.25 per vehicle (up to eight passengers); 8 a.m. to sunset daily; 2601 Atlantic Ave., Fernandina Beach; (904) 277-7274.
- Fort George Island, Kingsley Plantation National Historic Site: This 19th century cotton plantation with slave quarters is worth a visit; free admission; 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily; 11676 Palmetto Ave., Jacksonville; (904) 251-3537.
- Harn Museum of Art: This attractive museum offers changing exhibits and a permanent collection of African and pre-Columbian works, as well as American and Latin American paintings; free admission; 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tuesday through Friday; 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Saturday; 1 to 5 p.m. Sunday; S.W. 34th Street and Hull Road, Gainesville; (904) 392-9826.
- Jacksonville Art Museum: This museum features a pre-Columbian exhibit on permanent display and changing exhibits; free admission; 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Thursday, 1 to 5 p.m. Saturday and Sunday; 4160 Boulevard Center Drive; (904) 398-8336.
- Jacksonville Zoological Park: More than 800 animals, birds and reptiles inhabit this zoo; adults, $4; children 3-12, $2.50; 2 and younger, free; daily 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.; 8605 Zoo Road; (904) 757-4463.
- Lightner Museum: A large and eclectic collection of art, antiques, decorative pieces and what-nots are housed in the former Alcazar Hotel, built by Henry Flagler in the 1800s; adults, $4; children 12-18, $1; 11 and younger, free; 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily; 75 Kings St., St. Augustine; (904) 824-2874.
- The Oldest House: A national historic landmark, this colonial home is said to be the oldest house in the United States; adults, $5; 55 and older, $4.50; children over 6 and college students, $3; children 5 and younger, free; 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily; 14 St. Francis St., St. Augustine; (904) 824-2872.
- St. Augustine Alligator Farm: An elevated walkway extends over alligator swamps; also features wildlife and nature shows; adults, $8.95; children 3-10, $5.95; 2 and younger, free; 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily; 999 Anastasia Blvd., Anastasia Island, St. Augustine; (904) 824-3337.