Sanibel and Captiva remain a showcase
By Karen Haymon Long/Tampa Tribune

Sanibel Island
Captiva Island
Tips for the Trip

SANIBEL - Long gone are the days a groaning ferry shuttled eager visitors to Sanibel Island for picnicking, fishing and beachcombing.

Gone, too, are most of the white frame houses that dotted this picturesque barrier island west of Fort Myers 50 years ago.

But for all the changes that have come, many things are still the same.

People still come here from all over the world to search for seashells; fish for tarpon, snook and redfish; watch the great blue herons and snowy egrets; and stroll these wide, shelly beaches.

Canopies of Australian pines still shade parts of Periwinkle Way, Sanibel's main road. And, thanks to strict zoning and environmental protection, miles and miles of mangroves and thick sea-grape trees still line the road leading to Captiva, Sanibel's less developed sister island to the north.

In fact, more than half of Sanibel's 10,730 acres are preserved, thanks in part to the Sanibel-Captiva Conservation Foundation.

Both islands are a perfect place to do absolutely nothing, as long as you are outdoors, but there is plenty of active recreation as well.

Cycling, bird-watching, boating, riding water scooters, parasailing, walking, kayaking and playing golf are nearly as popular as shelling, fishing and aimless beach walking.

Experts are available - for a price - to guide visitors through the area's best shelling and fishing spots or to teach them how to kayak or parasail.

SANIBEL ISLAND

The view from the bridge leading from the mainland to Sanibel Island offers a hint of what is to come. Sea gulls trail fishermen trolling cobalt blue waters in silver boats. And brave sail-boarders in wet suits spin across the water clinging to colorful sails.

Fishing guides cost about $190 to $250, while shelling guides are about $160 to $180 for half-day outings. Kayak trips run about $35 per person, lessons included, and parasailing is about $80 for 20 minutes.

In recent years, the number of shops and art galleries has grown tremendously on Sanibel. And both islands have become known for their fine restaurants, especially those featuring seafood.

Two Sanibel grocery stores - Jerry's and Bailey's - rival any store in the Tampa area for fresh produce and gourmet foods, but they are pricey. And the MacIntosh Book Shop has a fine selection, including numerous how-to books on shelling and bird-watching.

In the distance, million-dollar homes, many on stilts, line the island's bayside, and the old lighthouse rises from the beach like a citadel on Sanibel's eastern tip.

People of all ages, toting buckets and sacks full of shells, spill from the beach onto Periwinkle Way, for it seems nearly everyone is tempted by the turkey wings, conchs, fan shells, coquinas and scallops.

Sanibel is one of the few Gulf barrier islands that stretches east to west. So, it collects an enormous number of shells on its beaches as they are swept along the shore by prevailing currents.

But Sanibel and Captiva have strict shelling restrictions:
Each person may take only two live shells per species a day, including sand dollars, sea stars, starfish and urchins. Maximum fines are stiff: $500 and 60 days in jail for first offenders.

Sanibel is also a bicycle rider's heaven. Paved bike paths go nearly the length of the island, along Periwinkle, Sanibel-Captiva Road and some of the coastal roads closer to the Gulf.

Bikes and mopeds are readily available to rent.

The hardy ride bikes from Island Moped to Sanibel's J.N. ``Ding'' Darling National Wildlife Refuge, named for the late Pulitzer Prize- winning political cartoonist, pioneer conservationist and founder of the ``Duck Stamp.''

The 4,975-acre refuge and its visitors' center are well worth a visit. There, you're likely to see many of the 291 species of birds, 32 mammals and 50 amphibians and reptiles that make the refuge home.

It's best to drive the 5-mile, one- way road through the refuge because it is often dusty and crowded with cars. Charge is $4 per car or $1 for walkers. Hours are roughly from just after sunrise to sunset every day but Fridays, when the refuge is closed.

On one of our visits, roseate spoonbills soared through the skies, osprey nested atop a dead palm tree and ponds were dotted with great blue herons, white ibis, anhingas and pelicans. Beside a pond, an alligator basked in the sun.

Our best sighting was a crocodile at least 7 feet long.

Only about 300 to 400 crocodiles are left in the United States, a U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service ranger told those gathered for a look. And all of them are in Florida.

CAPTIVA ISLAND

Down the road from the refuge and over a narrow bridge across Blind Pass lies Captiva Island, once home to author Anne Morrow Lindbergh, who wrote ``Gift From the Sea'' here.

Captiva's only main road hugs the coast just after the bridge, offering a spectacular view of the sea and wending to South Seas Plantation Resort at the road's end.

Captiva has much less shopping than Sanibel and shelling is not as rewarding, but it has the excellent Jungle Drums Gallery, which specializes in nature sculpture, glassware, jewelry, photographs and paintings.

Captiva has something rare anywhere in Florida: The stars shine brighter here, perhaps because it is so far from a city, or because it's a narrow island surrounded by channel and sea.

But it would be hard to find a finer view of the heavens.

Calusa Indians, who lived here for 2,000 years, surely witnessed that. They also appreciated the shells, which they made into tools.

Samples are displayed at the Sanibel Historical Village and Museum on Dunlop Road in Sanibel, open 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday.

TIPS FOR THE TRIP
HOW TO GET THERE Sanibel is about 20 miles west of Fort Myers in Lee County and about 150 miles from Tampa. We took Interstate 75 south to Daniels Road in Fort Myers and followed the signs to Sanibel. The bridge toll is $3. Take the Sanibel-Captiva Road to Captiva.

WHERE TO STAY Both islands, especially Sanibel, have many places to stay and eat. We stayed at the historic 'Tween Waters Inn, nestled between the channel and Gulf, not far from the bridge that connects Sanibel and Captiva islands. We had an efficiency an easy walk to the beach with a double and single bed, air conditioning, television, telephone, refrigerator, stove, sink and coffee maker. The room was $152.60 per night.

WHERE TO DINE We had very good meals at Captiva Inn in Captiva and the Lazy Flamingo in Sanibel.

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